We Who Are About To Get Soaked Salute You!

The Amphitheater of Trier.

Not long after I had moved to Germany, I was sitting in my German class one day and was chatting with the instructor. Like most Germans, she had a perpetual case of Wanderlust (a word, funnily enough, not actually used in modern German). While chatting about our travels and interests, she made an offhand mention to a small city in the very west of Germany called Trier. She told me it had two major claims to fame. First, it's the oldest city in Germany (founded as the Roman city of Treverensis). Second, it's the hometown of Karl Marx. My initial reaction was, "Cathedrals and communists? I gotta get check this place out!" A few days later I found myself on a long day trip to Germany's oldest city.

A typical sight for the
Mosel Valley (Wikimedia).

I took a gamble on the weather and lost miserably: it was a chilly, rainy day. While the weather was dreary, the scenery on the way to Trier was a welcome distraction. From the trains, I could see many lovely green hills, picturesque valleys, and vineyards. Lots and lots of vineyards. Trier, it turns out, is in the heart of the Mosel valley, one of Germany's most famous wine-growing regions.

After a short walk from the main station, I was greeted by one of Trier's most famous and oldest sites: the Porta Nigra. Dating from the second century A.D., the Porta Nigra is part of Trier's UNESCO World Heritage listing, which includes many other sites throughout the 2000 year old city. After snapping a few photos under the safety of my umbrella, I slowly walked through this ancient portal. It was the first time I ever walked through a proper Roman gate. The blackened, battered stones of this proud structure made me feel like a time traveler walking through the ages.

City-facing view of the Porta Nigra.

 Looking through the Porta Nigra.

The Three Magi.

Before checking out the rest of Trier, I popped into a Coffee Fellows for a much needed hot drink. While sipping my coffee and checking my trusty guidebook for places of interest, I spotted a really striking painting on the wall of the cafe. Showing the Three Wise Men, it was one of the coolest depictions I'd ever seen of them. I couldn't quite tell if the painting was a reproduction of an old painting or if it was a modern take on the Bible story. While Trier has a very rich Catholic history (more on this later), it's the city of Cologne that's most closely associated with the Magi. In fact, the majestic Cologne Cathedral is said to contain their remains.

Rather than give a detailed account of everything I saw, I'll just focus on three of my favorite sites. The first was the mighty Aula Palatina, better known as the Constantine Basilica. As the name implies, this structure built was on the orders of the Constantine the Great, Rome's first Christian emperor, in the 300s A.D.

The Constantine Basilica.

The beautifully austere interior
of the Constantine Basilica.

By this time, Trier was already one of the most important Roman cities north of the Alps. As the Western Roman Empire gradually collapsed during the 400s, the Catholic Church increasingly filled the void of power. During the Middle Ages, the rich and powerful diocese of Trier would become one of the most influential members of the Germanic Holy Roman Empire. Aside from it's strategic location and status as an old provincial capital city, Trier's major source of prominence was religious. Pilgrims from all over Europe would visit Trier to catch a glimpse of the alleged Holy Tunic of Jesus, housed at the Trier Cathedral, and to visit the relics of the Apostle Matthias, who was chosen to replace Judas. Trier still draws pilgrims to this day, some of which continue their long trek all the way to northwestern Spain on the Way of St. James. In light of this long and rich Catholic history, I was shocked (and somewhat amused) to discover that the Constantine Basilica is a Protestant church these days. The explanation requires another little history lesson. 

Statues inside the basilica.

The Protestant kingdom of Prussia gained the Catholic Rhineland territories, which included Trier, after the defeat of Napoleon in the early 1800s. In the mid-1800s, on the orders of Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm IV, the basilica was renovated and restored to its original Roman state. It was at this time that the basilica was converted into the first (and now oldest) Protestant church in Trier. While it might seem like a case of blatant discrimination, Friedrich Wilhelm IV did ease relations with the Catholic Rhinelanders by sponsoring the completion of the Cologne Cathedral, which had been lying uncompleted for centuries.

As for the actual structure of the Constantine Basilica, I loved its cavernous interior. The exposed bricks were another interesting feature of the building. Far from being purposely decorative, the walls were left in this state after being damaged from fires during bombing raids in the Second World War. The simple, basically unadorned atmosphere was a perfect fit for its role as a Protestant church.

A map of Roman Trier. The amphitheater is
to the upper right in the map.

Ground level entrance
to the Amphitheater.

The second of my favorite sites in Trier was the amphitheater, which is tucked away in a residential section of the city next to a vineyard (of course) and some upscale houses. With space for 20,000 spectators, the amphitheater hosted all the events you would expect a Roman amphitheater to host; gladiatoral death matches, public executions, and exotic animal exhibitions. I followed the recommended tour path to get a good view from the top.

The high view of the amphitheater included fall foliage, a peek at a vineyard, and lots of rain.

I thought the most interesting part of the site was what was underneath it. Literally. An intricate series of chambers and pathways run directly beneath the arena. It was here that the gladiators, animals, and condemned persons were corralled before the bloody spectacles would begin. Much of the place was damp and soaked but it was still interesting to see the "guts" of the amphitheater.

The large staging area directly beneath the amphitheater.

The third and admittedly most interesting of my favorite sites in Trier was the Matthias Abbey, which houses the remains of the Apostle Matthias.

View of the rain-drenched Matthias Abbey.

Interior of the nave.

Records show that a monastic community has lived on this site since at least the 400s. In the late 900s, the community became a part of the Benedictine order and has remained a part of it ever since. According to legend, the Roman empress Helena, mother above the above-mentioned Constantine, sent the remains of the Apostle Matthias to Trier in early 300s. Constantine had tasked his mother with finding Christian relics throughout the empire. Her famous pilgrimage to the Holy Land was a huge success and church historians credit her with discovering, among other things, the One True Cross and Nails of the Crucifixion. The previously mentioned Holy Tunic and the Matthias relics in Trier were also discovered by her. Helena's prominence in early Christianity is so important that she's even venerated as St. Helena of Constantinople by the Catholic, Orthodox, and Lutheran traditions. Funnily (or appropriately) enough, she's also revered as the patron saint of new discoveries. If that weren't enough, Helena's skull is said to be among the many treasures and relics inside of the Trier cathedral (I didn't get the chance to see it when I was there).

I've written before on this blog on how many old churches in Europe feel more like withering museums instead of living spiritual centers. This wasn't the case with the Matthias Abbey. As soon as I stepped in, I felt what I can only describe as a calm vibe. The fact that the cathedral was dry, somewhat warm, and nearly empty also added to the relaxed atmosphere. The only other people I saw inside were a couple of Jack Wolfskin clad tourists. In the very center of the nave was what appeared to be a sarcophagus surrounded by massive candles (~ 1 m/ 3 ft) and fresh flowers. It was a simple and very touching display of devotion that perfectly fit the monastic setting.

Effigy of the Apostle Matthias.

Sarcophagus of St. Matthias.

The crypt directly underneath the nave contains the tombs of Eucharius and Valerius, the bishops who established the archbishopric of Trier in the late 200s A.D. Also in the crypt is the ancient stone container said to hold the actual remains of the Apostle Matthias. It lies directly underneath the effigy in the nave. There was something very intimate about walking around all alone inside of the apostolic crypt. Here was one of the holiest Catholic shrines in Germany (and perhaps all of Europe) and I just happened to have it all to myself at that moment. Who would've thought? I was a wonderful experience to be there and I felt very grateful for the opportunity. My body was still cold but my spirit and heart were definitely warmed a bit by the experience.